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Posts tagged ‘Surfing’

Kielbasa

To be honest, the title kinda says it all really. I actually rarely title a piece until after I have completed the writing. Or thereabouts. Often I’ll write something partway through that just rings out to me. Bobbing Around Beyond The Break, for example. Vomitation…

It’s Been A Long Time Since We Did Anything Really Fucking Stupid

December 31st, 2022
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Surfing & Moon

Surfing By Moonlight

December 29th, 2022
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Gone Surfing

Gone Surfing

December 27th, 2022
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Beach Fire

Doing small things every day will, over time, amount to sizeable achievements. Glasses of wine, cigarettes, lines of cocaine… these are all relatively small things. Oliver White

Drink In Hand & Ass On Sand

December 31st, 2021
Gone Surfing

Gone Surfing

December 27th, 2021
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Longboard

Longboard Long Shadow

December 24th, 2021
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Surf Rocket

Ready To Launch

November 27th, 2021
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Surfing is climbing from a warm bed in predawn’s coolness, a sleepy drive, coffee and doughnuts at a roadside diner and the clatter of surfboards as they’re unstacked from a car rack. Surfing is the joy of watching a sun rise slowly into the sky. It’s crisp, clean waves, crests blown high by an offshore wind. It’s gray mist, dampness and cold sand under bare feet, the lonely cry of a gull sweeping across silent, brooding seas. On a big day, surfing is a strong swell and waves that have lost their playfulness. Then it’s stomach knots, high exultation, a trace of fear. Fred Wardy

November 7th, 2021

Above all, surfing is about respecting the power of the ocean. Enduring a two-wave hold down reinforces the point. Dylan Hayden

November 2nd, 2021

Golden Swell

Golden Swell

October 14th, 2021
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Surfing Drone Beach

Heading Into The Wash

October 2nd, 2021
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I learned that surfing is also based on the pursuit of those few seconds when life stops and you’re standing on top of the ocean. Beth Fehr

September 19th, 2021

Surfing At Sunset

Gone Surfing

September 15th, 2021
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Surfer Girl

Surfer Girls Never Look Like This At My Break

August 20th, 2021
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