Surfing | iam.ollief1.com

Doing small things every day will, over time, amount to sizeable achievements. Glasses of wine, cigarettes, lines of cocaine… these are all relatively small things. Oliver White

Surfing is climbing from a warm bed in predawn’s coolness, a sleepy drive, coffee and doughnuts at a roadside diner and the clatter of surfboards as they’re unstacked from a car rack. Surfing is the joy of watching a sun rise slowly into the sky. It’s crisp, clean waves, crests blown high by an offshore wind. It’s gray mist, dampness and cold sand under bare feet, the lonely cry of a gull sweeping across silent, brooding seas. On a big day, surfing is a strong swell and waves that have lost their playfulness. Then it’s stomach knots, high exultation, a trace of fear. Fred Wardy

November 7th, 2021

Above all, surfing is about respecting the power of the ocean. Enduring a two-wave hold down reinforces the point. Dylan Hayden

November 2nd, 2021