West Of Jesus

By

Surfer
West Of Jesus: Surfing, Science and The Origin Of Belief, and despite the absurd title, it is actually amazing. Allow me to briefly sum up the book so far (just passed the halfway point)…

…Journalist. American. Occasional surfer. Gets Lyme disease. Has no energy. Eventually gets talked into surfing again. Despite having no energy. Finds it helps with aforementioned disease. Goes surfing more often. Ends up travelling the world looking for ‘The Conductor’ – a character in a mythical story told by the occasional surfer. Meets great people. Meets weird people. Catches a lot of decent waves. Asks a lot of question about science and religion, and some how relates them to surfing. Doesn’t actually sound too American, but apparently so. Has deep and meaningful conversations with oneself, the kind you have when you find yourself at home, on the sofa, after a night out drinking heavily. Finishes second half of book. Gets published. Plays with Ollie’s mind.

Really worth reading if your into surfing/spirituality/psychology of sportsmen/mythology/weed.