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Posts tagged ‘Surfing Words’

Cresting

The warmth of the morning sun caressing your cheek is enough to stir you from slumber. The chilled breeze on your bare feet enough to cause a gentle shiver to ascend. Goosebumps form and leg hair stands, the scent of yesterday’s fire leaving just a…

Running Towards The Green Monster

April 5th, 2020
Surfing

Surfing is a great soother for the soul; very little enables my mind to be as empty as it is as when I am bobbing around beyond the break, waiting for the right moment to paddle towards the shore. In all honesty, I do not…

A Soother For The Soul

August 3rd, 2019
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Surfer

The ascerbic taste of a barbed heart being suffocated causes the mind to fill with vitriolic thoughts. Lingering in the air, the scent of venomous emotions cover the face with creases of pain and regret. Torture is present, the reluctant acceptance of releasing grip and…

The Tide Of Realisation

November 11th, 2017
Surfing

In the old days, I remember a wind that would blow down through the canyons. It was a hot wind, called a Santana. And it carried with it the smell of warm places. It blew the stongest before dawn across the Point. My friends and…

Wednesday’s Santana

July 9th, 2015
Surfing

You know it’s happened before it actually has, the tightening of your stomach the starkest and most sickening of warnings. As your mind catches up with your body, it is already too late to repair the damage, for the error has occurred and the point-of-no-return…

No Prejudice, No Grudge

August 27th, 2014
Tube

When you run your hand across your cheek to wipe the wind-swept spray from your face, the prickly sensation of a forgotten shave causes a shiver to descend down your spine. But the icy ocean that surrounds and submerges your arm with every stroke only…

The Savage Beast Of Sought Opportunity

December 14th, 2012

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