Duke

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Duke KahanamokuHow would you like to stand like a God before the crest of a monster billow, always rushing to the bottom of a hill and never reaching its base, and to come rushing in for a half mile at express speed, in graceful attitude, until you reach the beach and step easily from the wave?

Duke Kahanamoku. August 24th, 1890 – January 22nd, 1968.